Restaurant Development & Design

March-April 2015

restaurant development + design is a user-driven resource for restaurant professionals charged with building new locations and remodeling existing units.

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M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 1 5 • R E S T A U R A N T D E V E L O P M E N T + D E S I G N • 1 5 Izakaya Den, Denver "The design embraces the Japanese aesthetic idea of wabi-sabi, defned as the beauty of things 'imperfect, impermanent and incomplete,'" says Toshi Kizaki, owner and chef of Izakaya Den. Construction involved the use of natural and man-made materials in an intentional juxtaposition of old and new. Throughout the interior, design elements include concrete, weathered steel, stone and wood cladding. The materials are meant to age, weather and gain patina over time, says Kizaki. Parent company Hiro & Co., which also operates the 30-year-old Sushi Den concept, opened Izakaya Den in June 2013. Kizaki teamed with designer Jeff Sheppard of Roth Sheppard Architects for this new two-story project. Traditional elements, mainly on the frst foor, were designed and fabricated by Japanese artisans who came to Denver to install a variety of components on site. These included traditional shoji screens and stained wood beams and columns, which help to defne dining spaces. The second foor features a more modern and dynamic appearance, says Kizaki. There, natural materials such as stone, onyx, wood ceilings, concrete walls and oxidized steel panels combine casual and eclectic. A glass elevator and a winding staircase, with an en- compassing bamboo garden, tie the two levels together. "The restaurant is divided into separate seating areas, yet there is vis- ibility from each space into the central bamboo garden and sake bar. This al- lows the interior to maintain its casual and lively atmosphere," notes Kizaki. The building measures roughly 15,000 square feet, including a base- ment. The frst foor accounts for 5,800 square feet; the dining room consumes 40 percent of the space, and together the kitchen and prep areas consume an equal amount of space. There is also a small bar. The second foor accommo- dates a larger dining area and includes a retractable roof over the bar as well as an outdoor patio. Izakayas in Japan are generally small and modest because of high real estate costs. "Americans are not used to this type of smaller space and we created Izakaya Den to have more space with more atmosphere," notes the chef. His wide-ranging menu also departs from tradition. Izakaya Den bills itself as "The Sake House with Tapas." Dishes such as Wagyu beef sliders and shrimp & grits with sriracha butter offer a hint of global fusion. The menu includes sections of sushi and sashimi, noodle dishes and Japanese small plates. "In Japan, izakaya are modest, neigh- borhood establishments," says Brian Miller, senior project designer, Edit Lab at Streetsense, who headed up the design of Daikaya in Washington's Chi- natown. Opened in early 2013, Daikaya houses a ramen shop on the frst foor and an izakaya upstairs. Four years of concept develop- ment were kicked off by a two-week research trip to Japan by Miller and Daikaya's three partners, Yama Jew- ayni, chef Katsuya Fukushima and Daisuke Utagawa. "We visited half a dozen places a day in Tokyo. We found that there is no one set of rules or traditions that govern izakayas," says Miller. But the team returned with plenty of ideas, as well as Japanese fabrics, signage and small sculptures to integrate into the décor. In D.C., Jewayni found an empty lot in Chinatown and convinced the landlord to construct a customized building. De- signing it from the ground up, the team reinterpreted the customary lanterns that mark izakayas, transforming the whole fa- çade into a glowing lantern at night with a laser-cut seikaiha pattern, an ancient symbol for water. It's made from weath- ered steel, which adds a patina of rust. "In Japan, it is very common to have buildings with multiple bars or restaurants on different foors. So we wanted to do two separate entrance- ways," explains Miller. The ground foor takes its inspiration from Sapporo-style ramen shops, with tight seating and simple design intended to keep the focus on the food. The ramen counter is clad in graphic blue and yellow tiles and the kitchen is open. Daikaya, Washington, D.C. Photo by Nikolas Koenig

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